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However. taking the time to do it right yourself is extremely rewarding. There are exact specifications. Doing so places enormous stress on. In order to withstand these stresses. Consequence of failure. Fail. to set up the gears properly - and deflection under load could cause a spike. Also, bearings. that are improperly set up can overheat and seize. The damage caused by poor. There's a LOT of material in this. At first glance it may seem a little intimidating. It really isn't, but to help keep things clear in your mind - the. Jack and Mina burst in on their father as he conducts an interview with the BBC that instantly went viral online (BBC News/YouTube/GIF) Back in March, Robert Kelly. Quick Ref Steps: - Assemble all tools and parts in clean work space - Disassemble, clean, and inspect all parts - Make set-up bearings if required. Find great camping in and around Chula Vista, California. 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Disassemble, clean, and inspect all parts- Make set- up bearings if required- Measure and label new shims- Calculate starting shim stacks- Install ring- gear, starting shims, and set- up bearings- Set backlash- Set pinion depth and pinion- bearing preload- Check contact pattern and adjust as required- Re- check backlash and contact pattern- Set carrier preload- Install new races and bearings- Final check of backlash, contact pattern, and preload- Install pinion seal and new pinion nut- Install cover and add lube- Break in gears- Change lube. Background Automotive ring and pinion- gears. Hypoid gears are gears that are shaped like a cone, have spiral. Examine a ring. and pinion and it’s easy to see that they have spiral (curved) teeth. The spiral teeth of the ring and. This sliding contact begins gradually at one end of the teeth. The contact is also overlapping; meaning. In order to. accomplish this sliding/overlapping contact without jamming, the curvature of. You can see in Figure 5 that the pinion- gear teeth curve much more than. Because of this asymmetrical curvature, in order to achieve. You. can see an example of this by looking at the base (or root) of the ring- gear. Figure 5 – notice how one angle is almost 9. The result is that the ring- gear teeth have a concave side. What all this fancy engineering means, is that in. For example: Mountings must be rigid enough. This means axle housings. Gears must be held in proper. This requires. roller bearings in good condition and with proper pre- load. Tooth contact (mesh) must be. This means using only matched ring and pinion sets and accurately. Proper lubricant must be used. This means using properly rated hypoid gear oil and setting. If the teeth mesh too closely (insufficient backlash). In short – there’s a. Note: There are many different types. Some have removable centre sections (Toyota. Ford 9 inch); some use adjusting rings for setting carrier- bearing preload (1. Dana); some use a collapsible spacer to set pinion- bearing. Dana 3. 5), some use solid shims (Dana 7. Dana 6. 0). As such, it is not possible. The. procedures and pictures for this article I developed while setting up the gears. Dana 6. 0 front axle. However, the theory, naming conventions, and basic. Nomenclature I’m a real stickler for accurate. I’m so easily. confused! There’s another good reason though. I always want to know, not. When you are putting together your own hybrid axle. The parts- counter guy may. Having said that – I understand. Sometimes there are also two or more correct terms for the. Figure 1 –. Ring- gear nomenclature. Key: A – Top. The top of the. Face, Top Land. B – Root. The bottom of the gear tooth, a. Flank. C – Heel. The outside- diameter- end of the gear tooth. D – Toe. The inside- diameter- end of the gear tooth. E – Drive. The convex side of the gear tooth*F – Coast. The concave side of the gear tooth** Don’t be mislead by. Which side of. the teeth will depend on if the gear- set is standard or reverse spiral. Figure 2 –. Pinion nomenclature. Key: A – Head. B – Inner Bearing Seat. C – Shaft. D – Shoulder. E – Outer Bearing Seat. F – Splines. G – Threads. Figure 3 –. Pinion assembly nomenclature. Key: A – Pinion Nut. B – Pinion Nut Washer. C – Yoke (a. k. a. End Yoke or Flange)D – Pinion Oil Seal. E – Thrust washer. F – Outer Pinion- bearing. G – Outer Pinion Shims (a. Pinion Preload Shims)H – Pinion- bearing Baffle. I – Inner Pinion Shims (a. Pinion Depth Shims)J – Inner Pinion- bearing. K – Inner Pinion Slinger. L – Pinion (a. k. Pig. Pumpkin, Chunk, Centre Section)*B – Ring- gear (a. Crown Gear)C – Carrier (a. Diff, Differential, Case)*D – Carrier- bearing Cap. E – Carrier- bearing Shims (a. Diff Bearing Shims)* Note that technically, Dana/Spicer. C as the “Case – Differential” or just. Case” and part A as the “Carrier.” However, most. C the “Carrier” (and hence D the carrier- bearings. I shall stick to that to avoid confusion. When describing the various bearings. I shall use the term “bearing” to mean the two- piece. Theory OK, so we know setting up the gears. The four settings are: Figure 5 – Backlash. Backlash. Definition: The amount by which a tooth space exceeds. Think of it as: Play between the mating teeth of gears. How Measured: Measured as the free movement of the ring- gear. In other words, you’re measuring how much you. Adjusted Via: Carrier shims. Adding shims on the ring- gear. Note that: carrier shims added to one side. Note: Backlash changes about 0. The purpose of having backlash (i. Lack of backlash may cause noise, overloading. Figure 6 – Pinion Depth. Pinion. Depth. Definition: Position of pinion- gear relative to the ring- gear. Proper pinion depth makes sure the pinion. Increasing pinion depth moves the pinion closer. How Measured: The final determination of correct pinion. There exist specialized tools. Adjusted Via: Inner pinion shims placed between the housing. Adding shims moves pinion closer to. Removing. shims moves pinion further away from ring- gear centreline, moving the. Note: When adjusting pinion depth, begin with a starting shim stack and. Adding or subtracting a single shim of one thou can. Increasing pinion depth also decreases backlash. Decreasing pinion depth also increases backlash and. Increasing pinion depth will also increase pinion- bearing. Pinion- bearing Preload. Definition: Bearing preload is a measure of the rolling resistance. As a cone is pressed against. Correct bearing preload. Think of it as: How tightly the pinion- bearing cones are pressed. How Measured: An inch- pound torque wrench is used on the pinion nut to measure. Adjusted Via: Outer pinion shims placed between the face of. Adding shims. causes the pinion- bearings to be spaced away from their cups, reducing pre- load. Add shims to reduce pre- load and remove shims to increase preload. Note: Pinion preload is normally specified without the carrier. An installed carrier can add 2- 4. Too little preload diminishes. Too much preload increases friction, resulting in excessive noise. Carrier- bearing Preload. Definition: See pinion- bearing preload. Think of it as: How tightly the carrier- bearing cones are pressed into their. Also controls how tightly. How Measured: Not possible to measure directly. Adjusted Via: Adding or subtracting an equal amount of carrier- bearing. Ideally, total carrier shim stack (sum of. However, a case spreader is not critical. Note: If carrier preload is too little, carrier will move away. This could. lead to insufficient gear tooth contact, resulting in chipping/breaking of gear. Figure 7 –. Dial indicating inch- pound torque wrench. Tools You will require a good, complete. Air tools are not a must, but will certainly make the job a lot. You will also need the following: Foot- pound torque wrench - you. You can try to do without, and use a. Inch- pound torque wrench –. Those with a great deal of experience. Because you need to use the tool to measure torque while. I understand that beam- style wrenches. Dial Indicator – needed. It might be possible. You simply cannot do. Set- up bearings – needed. Take my advice – don’t. Besides, you can easily. I recommend anyway. Gear marking compound and brush. Bearing pullers and/or bearing. Depending on their size, you will need one or both. I have. seen folks attempt the work with hammer and punch (ahem, cough) and the results. Don’t ask why I have a large pile of ruined. Bearing / seal drivers and/or. You can often fabricate your own drivers. Pinion- nut socket – a 1. Dana 6. 0 pinion nut, with a sufficiently thin wall. Pry bars – required for. A case spreader would. Dead- blow hammer – needed. A dead- blow hammer is like a combination of a mallet. It also has a moving weight inside to reduce “bounce- back”. Punch or stamp – for marking. Assorted wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers. RTV, thread- locker, vice, hammers, parts cleaner. Step. by step procedure. Before beginning this, or for that. It’s not just some lame legal. I have a. synthetic lens in my left eye and a rather painful memory of a piece of steel. So just wear the gear, OK? There are four main phases to the. They are: Disassembly, cleaning and inspection Prep and calculation of starting. Installation and adjustment using. Installation of new bearings. Disassembly. Disassembly is straightforward. If you’re not completely confident at. Personally, my buddy likes to stand around and. I’m sure he imagines are clever remarks while drinking my beer. I, of course, respond by making him count. Having said that. You can set- up gears with the axle in the vehicle, but it is a pain. I highly. recommend you remove the axle first. If you leave it in the vehicle, removing. PITA that. you’re liable to lose patience and compromise your set- up.- Be sure to mark the carrier- bearing caps with a punch so that they can be. As you disassemble the carrier and pinion, makes sure you label all shims. When you drive the pinion out of the housing, do not smash the threads with. However, do not get so distracted. Preparation. First, assemble all the required tools and parts, clear a place to work, and. You need. to remove any protective coatings or packing debris and it’s not unheard. You should also take the time to measure all the new shims with. |
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